Spring repair help

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Spring repair help

Postby dude123 » November 28th, 2011, 10:43 am

To Vic and other Neato expert here,

I am a newbie and try to do the repair myself, two questions:

1) in order to drill the hole and reconnect the spring,
does the whole front side needs to be removed? Or I can just remove
the wheels and do it from down under?

2) is there a strict rule where should I drill the hole,
only on the metal part? or the plastic part is OK too?

Sorry for the noob questions, any detail help how this should be done are welcomed :roll:
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby vic7767 » November 28th, 2011, 12:50 pm

The eyelet installation should be performed as close to the break as possible and in the same line with where the original path of the spring was. You can see more info on my website here:
http://www.vic7767.com/neato-xv-11-mods ... any-parts/
Last edited by vic7767 on June 17th, 2012, 10:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby dude123 » November 28th, 2011, 6:01 pm

Hi Vic,
I already read your site, it is helpful, I just need more detail. Would you mind answering my specific questions again? Thank you!
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby vic7767 » November 28th, 2011, 7:30 pm

1) It is better to dis-assemble the robot to enable easy access to the portion of the plastic frame to drill a hole for mounting the spring. It is a personal choice as to how easy you want the mod to be.

2) I always drilled into the plastic, never into any metal.parts.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby dude123 » November 29th, 2011, 10:33 am

Thank you for the answer, Vic. Btw, just curious how reliable is the mod? Did you Neato work perfectly ever since? Is the plastic part *hard* enough to endure the hole in long term?
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby vic7767 » November 29th, 2011, 11:17 am

Two of the Neatos I run have received partial mods. By partial I mean that one has the mod done on the plastic frame portion of the Neato case and the other has the mod done on the drive motor. Both are still running fine.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby OntheWay » November 29th, 2011, 12:55 pm

Sİnce dont know about exact structure of the problem point giving spring issues, can it be reinforced by applying some epoxy, before the problem arises?

Alp
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby vic7767 » November 29th, 2011, 7:18 pm

Here's the structure. This is a .gif image of three images, click on the picture to see all three.
Attachments
Neato_Spring.gif
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby dude123 » November 30th, 2011, 12:29 am

This pic is super clear! In my case both ends breaks at the same time.
Don't understand why neato use all plastic material here..it is just matter of time before they breaks.
Vic, what is your suggestion to fix the frame(right) side?
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby vic7767 » November 30th, 2011, 1:18 am

No matter which end is broken, the solution is the same. Install an eyelet as close as possible to the broken or missing part.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby philbio » June 17th, 2012, 4:16 am

This is great info, my spring support failed on the chassis side, does anyone have a picture of the eyelet position on the chassis side? It looks a little more cramped.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby Wing Nut » November 9th, 2012, 5:56 am

After 14 months of working tirelessly, my XV-11 finally succumbed to the broken suspension spring fastenings. Beats me how. but strangely both fixing points for the one spring broke simultaneously :?

Someone with little tinkering experience mentioned they did the eyelet repair in about 90 minutes. My 3 steps forward, 2 steps back approach took all day. I guess my fix was for 2 fixing points, not one and required glue, but I also tried to re-use the broken plastic lugs by inserting a metal reinforcing pin (cut-off picture hanging nail) across the join in small holes that I'd drilled deep into both sides of the break. That worked fine for the plastic post on the casing side, but failed on the black plastic lug of the suspension/wheel arm - it rotated on the reinforcing pin despite the epoxy cement.

So halfway through re-assembly there was a demoralising clunk from within the case and the wheel flopped about again. I went back to using the eyelet repair for that location. Unfortunately once reassembled, it seemed to be catching on the casing, so once more I had to tear it apart and re-angle the eyelet. Nearly re-assembled once more and I dropped a screw somewhere into the casing and it wouldn't shake out. So one more opening of the case to find that!

The outcome has been a success, however, and it works fine :pray:
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby glnc222 » November 9th, 2012, 4:15 pm

Glue is unlikely to be stronger than the original stuff which breaks under long term tension. It needs a screw, not even an eyelet, into a larger area of plastic with sufficient strength, and steel at the narrow breaking point under angled leverage. The eyelet loop would only be for arranging the spring hook in the right orientation -- someone reported a plain screw sufficient. Eyelets may be more commonly available in the small gauge screw size.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby Wing Nut » November 9th, 2012, 6:20 pm

The cement was only to ensure the internal reinforcing pins stayed in place and didn't pull out - the pin within takes all the bending strain. But I didn't count on the offset wheel mount attachment swivelling around its pin, even with the spring shoved as close up to the pin as possible, reducing the moment. There is a lot of tension on those springs! You're right though, a small screw would be just as good as an eyelet, and possibly grab the plastic more securely.

On looking at the spring mounts, I had a thought on why some early models survived for ages without a spring breaking loose, while others failed within months. The attachment post on the casing is fairly long, so during assembly if the spring loop happened to be placed well away from the base of the post, it would place a lot more bending strain on the post than if it were placed at the base and resting against the main casing. The same might be happening at the other end where the spring mount is offset slightly creating a twisting as well as bending strain (excuse my engineering terms!) on the plastic lug. Again, the further out the spring is located, even 0.5mm would matter over time, the sooner it will fail.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby glnc222 » November 10th, 2012, 3:13 pm

They strengthened the case side attachment with a screw late 2011, in the top cover instead of bottom, but I don't think they changed the wheel end. That this also broke means there could still be some breakages.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby Wing Nut » November 15th, 2012, 3:32 am

I had to take my Neato apart again today - my previous all-day spring fix had a slight error. Since the initial repair, I'd noticed my old XV-11 was much quieter on my hardwood floors than in the past. At times I thought the beater wasn't even turning, but the familiar buzz came back when it crossed onto sisal-like carpeting.

Today as I set it off I was again sure it wasn't beating properly, so I got down level with the floor and saw one side of the beater, and in fact the entire Neato, was higher off the floor than the other side. Half the flappy strips weren't even touching the floor as they went around. Flipped it over, shoved the wheels into their wells to discover one was hitting something before reaching full retraction. Didn't have to scratch my head to figure out what was in the way - the eyelet I'd added to the wheel arm. Apparently all little eyelets are not equal - or I had the angle wrong.

I recalled the advice about using a screw instead of an eyelet, so my Neato got taken apart once more and a small self-tapping screw was inserted in place of the eyelet. It's now noisily running about downstairs picking up all the stuff it must have missed the last few days :)

I did remember to check something this time that I'd forgotten to look at last time the covers were off. The surviving original spring attachments on the other side. The plastic at neither end looks like it's about to bend or snap, although the spring loop is right hard up against the firmest part of each mount. Fingers crossed.
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby Wing Nut » November 3rd, 2018, 6:03 pm

I heard a 'Boing!' come from somewhere behind my computer screen the other day. Thought my printer had thrown a part, but it still worked OK and the curtains hadn't fallen down, so a mystery.

A day or two later I sent out my very old #1 XV-11 out and it got stuck transitioning from carpet to hardwood floor. I gave it a nudge and sent it on its way. Later in the task it got stuck again in a similar doorway. Only then did I discover it'd lost its suspension on one side - the plastic stalk had finally failed after ~8 years. The first spring attachment failed about a year in from new, yet this other one has lasted several more years.

When I was repairing the first wheel, I apparently made sure the spring on the surviving one was shoved hard up against the casing and not part way along the rather feeble plastic stalk. That seems to have worked, until now.

It took me another day [Doh!] to recall the mysterious 'Boing!' noise I'd heard a few days earlier and finally connect it to my Neato throwing a spring ;) However, it's odd it should go while sitting quietly at its dock not doing anything. Anyway, it's now belly-up on the table awaiting some minor surgery.
#1 Neato XV-11 SW 2.0 Board Rev 113 / 4400mAh Lithium Power battery installed Jan 2018 / Pet & Allergy pack installed Sept 2013. In July 2014, received and repaired a faulty #2 Neato XV-11, running Lithium Power 4400mAh battery since July 2015
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Re: Spring repair help

Postby glnc222 » November 3rd, 2018, 8:28 pm

One of the earliest revisions in XV-11 construction was replacing the plastic post for attaching the spring end with a substantial molded mount for a screw to attach the spring, in the top cover (requiring detaching the springs before removing the top, while the old fastening was in the bottom section). There were many reports apparently of that plastic post breaking, and it clearly was incorrectly engineered for the rather strong tension on that spring. Some posts here show this revision, as it caused an accident trying to open the case without knowing it, allowing the spring to snap in a way jerking the LCD cable catastrophically, requiring replacing the whole LCD (surface mount soldered cable, difficult to repair -- plus no strain relief on it). See Mods & Repairs thread for references.
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