
Earlier I wrote about a new controller for my Scooba 230 - http://www.robotreviews.com/chat/viewto ... =4&t=17999.
Now about the new bladder.
My Scooba refers to the unfortunate series that is produced in March 2012. Bladders set in this series, after several months of use cracked in many places. As far as I know, technology replacing leaky bladders do not exist.
So, know-how!
For starters through Fill-port I tore the original bladder. He is in very bad condition.

Next, I was looking for a suitable "donor" bladder. By all measures suitable container from the storage of blood. For example this.

But to find such, I could not - in pharmacies and medical stores do not sell them.
However, in one of the stores I found such a thing.



There, I bought a system for blood transfusions. I used a tube from the kit.

Preparation of a new bladder
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First I cut off all the unnecessary "tail" and "wings" on the bubble.
Next, I picked up a plastic tube. Its diameter is slightly smaller than the hole Fill-port.

From the tube I cut a piece of which made a new filler neck.

Of the bladder I cut a wide tube, a new neck glued in bubble with superglue.

Drain tube I shortened.

In a new bladder has a check valve, it must be removed.

This work was done through a new wide neck with a long thin needle and tweezers. The main thing - do not damage the bladder.
Preparation of a Scooba body
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Gently removed "drain fitting" of the tank.

Thin tube ideally enters to the fitting.
Drill a hole through the inside of the Scooba tank. Its diameter is equal to the diameter of the thin tube from blood transfusion set.
Tube is inserted into the hole. Its other end is passed through Fill-port.

The tube is inserted into the Scooba tank.

Coupling "clutch" at the end of the tube. She helped connect with wider drain tube on the bladder.

Tubes is connected very tightly. But in addition to reliability pasted over with superglue.

Next, bubble built like a "wave", and inserted into the tank through the Fill-port.
The new "filler neck" is in place and seal with superglue for tightness.

The drainage tube sticking out of the tank.

Fitting is put on the tube and glued.

Fitting glued to his seat.

On the bottom cover positioned a "rear" nozzles for spraying water.
Previously I shot the bottom cover, and carefully cut the feed tube.
To restore this tube, I used a thick needle from the blood transfusion system.
Of it was cut off a piece about 7mm.

Slice of the needle is inserted into the hole on the tube on the bottom cover of Scooba.

The second part of the needle is inserted into the hole of the tube on the Scooba body.
Connection point is filled with glue and sealant.

Connection point of tubes.

The bottom cover is glued to the body of the robot using a silicone sealant.
Sealant fills all the gaps.




The hole for the connector for controller programming glued over adhesive tape.

Now the drawbacks of this method of restoring bladder
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When the drill hole in the Scooba tank, damaged sensor CTE (Clear Tank Empty).
But if the sensor was not damaged, the tube from the new bladder does not allow working the sensor - no contact with clear water from the bladder.
Therefore, in a selfmade controller I refused to work with this sensor.
I use the vacant input to control the temperature of the battery.
If Scooba has the original controller, then after restoring bladder needs to be done for blocking CTE-sensor. Otherwise Scooba will not work.
To block CTE-sensor need to cut a small piece of plastic on the bottom cover.
Then you need to carefully remove the compound from the corner of the board and gain access to the pins of the connector of the CTE-sensor.

At the pins of connector soldered resistor of 1-10 KOhms.
Then seal the board using sealant or epoxy "plasticine".

Video - Restoring Scooba 230:
https://yadi.sk/i/oYgwsFFRcPnBq
http://rutube.ru/video/791a3fcd0976ac60 ... 7dd2447e9/