Scooba 230 Dis-assembly

[Serge_ISA]

Omg! You did a great job!, hours and hours invested!
Congrats yous should post some stuff about your new controller

Sorry, a little late.
Bon appetit - http://www.robotreviews.com/chat/viewto ... =1&t=17999 !

[SimonD]

Pics of my clear 230....

Hi Third_deg, do you mind sharing cad file or .stl as i'm also planning on printing some replacement part. I would really appreciate

[SimonD]

I have opened up the case using a rotary tool 2 mm below the top, thinking it would be the best place to seal off afterward. Turn out there is still a pipe in the middle for the wires. The plastic pipe itself broke by prying a bit with a screwdriver and I had to cut the wires with a scalpel. There is no connector that I have seen, nor extra wire... So I don't think it will be possible to bring it back to life.

As expected, the bladder was spilling water from a lot of place.

[jorgeli]

Can someone tell me where the sensore for the clean water is?
I have the problem that my scooba 230 says my water tank is empty but is is not.

Have try the support help but nothing help, so now I am trying to locate the problem for my self

Regard Jorgen

[vic7767]

Can someone tell me where the sensore for the clean water is?

You may find the information in this thread: http://www.robotreviews.com/chat/viewto ... =4&t=17999

[jorgeli]

Sorry Could not find anything there

[vic7767]

Since the 230 is so difficult to tear down to reach the different sensors there may be no information about what You seek.

[third_deg]

See the two pins to right side of pump (internal to the plastic). These are the pins that measure conductivity of the water. Usually just adding a touch of salt to the tank when you fill it solves the problem.

[jorgeli]

Thanks for the tip.
But it is not working .
The water is coming out and can go for 5 min and then give the signal " empty tank"

When i have read the thread i think i just throw it in the garbage

I really like that little robot in my small bathroom and now i can´t buy a new one because the don´t sell them any more.

Any that now if some new small model is coming or if another comapny has small model?

[Serge_ISA]

CTE_sensor_bloсking-theoretically_01:


CTE_sensor_bloсking-theoretically_02:


CTE_sensor_bloсking-Practically_01:


CTE_sensor_bloсking-Practically_02:


CTE_sensor_bloсking-Practically_03:


CTE_sensor_bloсking-Practically_04:

[d97ulf]

I have similar issues as jorgeli describes. My Scooba 230 works for 5-15 minutes and then suddenly stops. It only gives one low beep when trying to start it again (which I interpret as empty tank). After that it won't work more than maximum a couple of seconds, even if I remove and reseat the battery.

Funny thing is that if I leave it standing for a couple of weeks (with the hatches open) it can start working for a while again.

I tried the 10k resistor fix (very nice instructions Serge_ISA!), but unfortunately that does not resolve my situation. I am starting to suspect that even though the error indicates empty tank, it is not the root cause. Maybe there is some kind of internal leakage disturbing some sensor(s) or the electronics, and when it finally dries up it works for a while again?

By the way, when carving into the horrendous mold covering the PCB, I accidentily damaged the C120 capacitor. However, it only seems to affect the loud speaker since the beeps are now somewhat distorted...

[robtech]

I have a 230 with the cliff sensor on all the time by the BIT.
Does anyone know what photo transistor and LEDs its uses?
Or does anyone have a 230 with other issues and cliff sensors that pass the BIT? (willing to sell at reasonable price?)
I've considered replacing with Roomba or Scooba 300/ 5000 cliff sensor, but am unsure of wiring of any of these- Any have wiring of these?
Also considering bypassing photo transistor with 5k resistors and disabling cliff sensor- just not use it close to stairs etc.

[a1robotrepair]

5K resistor?
If they are the same part as used in the 300 series.

Gordon Wrote:

Yes, if you want to "fix" it, as opposed to fake its signal, either part can be easily procured. I think I list them in Scooba-Technical's Sensor section (see the relative Sticky). Scooba uses the same parts.


I will be happy just to bypass the sensor, ..
Else, if you want to fake a signal, I think you may simply short-circuit the photo-transistor (it may be better practice to insert a small resistance [10 to 100 ohms] rather than zero ohms, but I think that may be gilding the lily

As far as defeating the phototransistor, a schottky diode, forward biased, will act like the light activated phototransistor. Again, gilding the lily.

[robtech]

Yes- just considering bypasing by putting a resistor in parallel to the photo transistor. To put in another photo transistor or schottky need to know polarity of the photo-transistor in it , which is why I'm looking for a wiring diagram.

[a1robotrepair]

I don't have a 230.
R3 OBSERVATIONS: Shorting doesn't work, Schokky doesn't work, 10ohm or 100ohm doesn't work.
Any of the 4 IREDs will excite any of the 4 IRXTRs.
90 % of the time IRED problem, 5% open wiring, 4% circuit board, 1% IRXTR when one cliff has failed.
The IRED and IRXTR will have a flat edge, slot, tab or mark on it, match wires from one component to another.
The IREDS and IRXTRs are 5mm X 3mm thru hole. I THINK their w is 940nM.