Fast Charger (includes 5XX & Scooba) mod for 220/230 Volts!

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davidfrommars
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Charger Light Flashing On 500 Series Charger after Mod....

Post by davidfrommars »

I have a Roomba 530 - and have the same problem that you all had with the charger/power supply - using it on 220 volts.
First I tried an alternate power supply - rated at the excatly the right voltage - but I kept getting the charging error 2 code...sometimes it would charge though...
I tried a 110-240 Volts step-up transformer - but that just damaged the charger as soon as I used it..agh...
Then I tried the modification from this forum - it worked fine the first time, but now the light on the charger is flashing - so it doesnt charge the battery properly.
I changed both the capacitors, the varistor, and the PCB fuse...I think the mod is ok...but one part inside the power supply must be causing the power light on the charger to blink - does anyone know what it might be ?
The power supply gives out the correct power - 22.5 volts - but the reading fluctuates slightly when the led blinks...what could be wrong ?...I'm guessing one of the components was damaged when I used the stepup transformer...

I hope someone can help - thanks - David :!:
debugger
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Re: Charger Light Flashing On 500 Series Charger after Mod..

Post by debugger »

davidfrommars wrote:I tried a 110-240 Volts step-up transformer - but that just damaged the charger as soon as I used it..agh...

...I'm guessing one of the components was damaged when I used the stepup transformer...
I assume when you say step-up you actually mean step down - you should be OK with a Step Down transformer (but not one of the cheap converters). Can you advise which model of transformer you used?
mporange
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Post by mporange »

Just modded a 530 charger to 230v in Denmark

Changed capacitor to 47uf 400v, and removed Varistor RV1.
The green LED on is, but i?m getting 35V DC out!!
What?s up with the voltage?

And the capacitor is humming, is this normal?
Gordon
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Post by Gordon »

mporange wrote:...Changed capacitor to 47uf 400v, and...The green LED on is, but i?m getting 35V DC out!!...And the capacitor is humming, is this normal?
Not at all!

Here's a wild guess: That particular cap is not compatible with a switch-mode power-supply application. If you were to visit PowerIntegrations' web-site (they make the TOP2xx switching IC used in these iRbt SMPSs) and do some reading about component selections, you would see that 'garden-variety' caps are not recommended in the high-frequency sections of this type circuit. Naturally ~everyone ignores that recommendation when converting their SMPS for higher voltage mains, and they genrally get away with it!

(Continuing the "guess") If you can buy another 47uF, 400V cap that is from another lot, or mfr's lot, then sub it for the ringing one. Your SMPS may behave properly. As an alternate approach, you might also buy a 33uF, 400V cap and substitute it for the 47uF unit (rj5555 pointed out that with higher input voltage, more charge is being stored in the original capacitance than required for the switcher to work well).

All of the above assumes you did not accidentally mangle any of the regulation-feedback components or connections. If you had, I don't see that the 47uF capacitor should be set to ringing (I should say that this is another guess, and is based on what I have seen in the circuit of the original Fast Charging Power Supply; which has known differences wrt the 5xx SMPS).
mporange
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Post by mporange »

Thanks, for the reply!

I found the error, my multimeter....
The charger is working great.

And the humming is not from the capacitor but from the mainboard. in the area where i removed the vario... sort of like a fast ticking noise.
davidfrommars
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Post by davidfrommars »

Hello - yes - sorry I mean step-down transformer.
I used one from seven star - they seem to make lots of different step-up and step-down transformers

http://www.sevenstar.com/voltage-converters.htm

I used the SS-204 Model listed there - it is very compact, and can also power appliances up to 1600 watts. I think thes two things combined mean it doesn't give out a very even supply...so it could easily blow a delicate appliance. I have one of their lower power - 100 watt - adapters as well...which is bigger than the 1600 watt one...and I have a feeling this would work ok.

Of course both the power supply and the transformer were brand new - so it's always possible there was a fault with one of them.

Now I tried replacing the components back to what they were to start with, and using the 100 watt step-down transformer - but I still get the flashing led - and when i check the current with a multimeter it drops each time the led flashes - it seems that the powesupply output is switching on and off rapidly - so something else must be wrong with the power supply now - any ideas what...or should I just give up now?!

Also - I tried using a laptop power supply before - it works sometimes - but mostly I just get the error 2 message...even though it should be exactly the right output voltage - 22.5Volts. It is an R&F Power Supply for a Founder laptop.
debugger
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Post by debugger »

davidfrommars wrote:I used one from seven star - they seem to make lots of different step-up and step-down transformers

http://www.sevenstar.com/voltage-converters.htm

I used the SS-204 Model listed there - it is very compact, and can also power appliances up to 1600 watts.
I would expect that converter not to work, but on the other hand I would not expect it to have blown your Power Supply. These converters are not designed for continuous use which is what is needed for long slow charging. The first Roomba (4xxx series) I bought from the US came with one of those converters and it appeared to work, but when you went away and came back again after a period strange things were going on with lights dancing about all over the docking station.

Replacing the converter with a proper transformer solved the problem for me. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h ... +step+down

works fine with 4xxx series Roombas and should work fine for the 5xx ones. Some people go for the more powerful ones, so for overkill go for the 100w version of the same thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h ... +step+down

So, in summary, I believe the following:

1. The converter would never have worked, so that's why you had initial problems
2. I don't believe the converter blew your Roomba PS
3. I'm not sure, but it's possible that your subsequent upgrading of the PS has caused the issue you now have

Hopefully, someone else can now step in and advise a next move for you.
davidfrommars
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Post by davidfrommars »

Ok - thanks for all your help with it.

The strange thing is that the power supply blew before I even started charging the battery. It was working fine until I plugged it into the homebase (without the roomba attached to it) - and then it blew immeditaely. Now the transformer only gives a reading of putting out about 25v instead of 110 volts...so maybe the transformer was always faulty and caused the problem.

Thanks for the links as well.

Of course now I have the problem that the charger doesnt work properly any more - can anyone help me solve the problem of the flashing LED ?
What could be wrong ?
dennyon
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Post by dennyon »

Not sure if anyone is interested in this... but here's some info about the possible options to use on 220/240V power supplies:

http://abecemod.blogspot.com/
sdxland
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Post by sdxland »

davidfrommars wrote:
Of course now I have the problem that the charger doesnt work properly any more - can anyone help me solve the problem of the flashing LED ?
What could be wrong ?
I, too, had the problem. LED flashing in the power supply and power supply not worked. All proved simply -the replacement of the capacitor , I cut off part of the radiator transistor. Then there was the problem .. Radiator must be connected to GND. He is the screen.
You have no similar case?
When I restored the connection - it works!
alternatevista
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Post by alternatevista »

What value resistor are people using to discharge the capacitor C1?
Gordon
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Post by Gordon »

alternatevista wrote:What value resistor are people using to discharge the capacitor C1?
I can't answer that question, but, 1k ohm would be OK.

A more important question is: How may I bleed charge from C1 without first dismounting the PCB? Typically, C1 is an end-mount cap with its terminals out of reach on the underside of the board. To answer my question, one must know what the HV-circuit looks like, in advance, so one may choose some top-side leads to touch. Roomba/Scooba SMPSs have evolved over time, so part-labels marked on the PCB may be different, but if I refer to the original Fast Charger's construction the cathodes, (K), of FW-bridge diodes D1 & D2 connect together and to C1(+); and D3 & D4 connect together and to C1(-). However, there is a problem with top-side touching the D1K, D2K, C(+) node, so its handy to also know that caps CY1 & CY2 each have one of their leads connected to that node, and bare lead-wires are exposed top-side.

More recent PCB layouts appear to make available all diode leads (for measurement).

So, one may measure residual voltage top-side, and apply the bleed-resistance to the same points.

But, all of that is somewhat moot if these internal events are considered:

a) Upon removal of mains voltage, switching will momentarily carry on until C1's voltage is drawn down to below some assigned low-line voltage value (not sure what that level is, but I think I recall reading '80VAC', somewhere, hence V_C1 would have been taken down from 170Vdc, to about 113Vdc by de-powering the unit) level. Still dangerous, but slightly less threat.

b) Then, C1 will will be further discharged via its own leakage resistance working in parallel with any circuit shunt resistance(s). Shunt paths are not obvious by looking at the PS's circuit, but there might be one through the TOPSwitch's controller. Since that is not clear, I decided on an empirical approach. I charged C1 (still in the SMPS-circuit, a PWB with no line-cord) to 29Vdc, then disconnected the charging cable from the dc-power source. Ten seconds later I touched the charging cable ends to a DVM's input and noted about a two-volt level! Almost 30V down to 2V in ten seconds! Based on that, I expect C1 will have very little charge in it by the time a modifier gets the screws removed from the unit's base, so its cover may be taken off.

I am not saying 'don't worry about it'. Do play it safe by measuring voltage across C1, before separating the PWB from its base casting.

What I mean to say is: Don't be concerned about choosing a bleed-resistance until you know there is some charge that needs to be bled off, and you know where to apply the resistive shunt.
alternatevista
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Post by alternatevista »

Thanks for the rather informative post Gordon, Considering I'll be doing this mod before the charger has ever been used C1 should have close to zero charge but I'll play it safe anyway.

I assume this capacitor [url="http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RE6125&CATID=&keywords=47uf&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID="]
47μF 450V RB Electrolytic Capacitor[/url] will work fine.

As for a replacement for RV1, I could only find one suitable replacement in a [url="http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RN3400&CATID=&keywords=varistor&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID="]
275VAC 4500A Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV)[/url]. It is only 35V above mains voltage and I'm not sure how clean my input supply is. Is this likely to cause problems?

As I'm yet to receive my Scooba I haven't been able to inspect the charger. Does it require a 3-pin plug including ground or just a 2-pin plug.
alvaro76
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Post by alvaro76 »

hello, i am waiting for my Roomba 560 to be delivered from the US to Germany. Maybe i was a bit premature, but before i found this forum i allready ordered a power supply.
Can somebody predict if it will work or even damage the other parts?
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vic7767
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Post by vic7767 »

You might want to post this in the international forum and see if you receive some comments. The PS that comes with the 5XX models output 22.5 vdc @ 1.25 amps.
PavelS
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Re: Fast Charger mod for 220/230 Volts!

Post by PavelS »

Hi !
Vassilis_Eco - YOU ARE GREAT !!
Your mod is the best. I just changed capacitor and varistor and my new Roomba 550 is charging now ! :D

Greetings from Poland
juanpa74
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Post by juanpa74 »

Anybody knows where in UK/London can I find electronic components without having to order like 5 or 10 minimum of each one (like //uk.rs-online.com) or making a minimum order of 20GBP (like farnell.com).
I also went to Maplin but to my surprise they didn't have the Varistor or Fuse in their catalogue.

Also a general question about capacitors for all the electronic guys here:

My problem is I connected the power supply to a 220v mains and you know...
So after inspecting the power supply I found two capacitors that might have been afected after the varistor explosion.
This is how the power supply looks (this picture is not from mine, mine looks a bit darker...)
http://bp2.blogger.com/_Qa6M9BTHPv0/R7 ... 1987b.jpg
This are C4 (different C4 to the older units) and C20. I can't find the same ones so my question is if these alternatives could work.
Original C4 is 82uF/25v I just could find 100uF/25v and 82uF/35v
Original C20 is 1uF/50v I just could find 2.2 uF/50v
Which alternative is better for C4? The same volts or the same capacity?
Will the alternative C20 work?

Also there is an IC chip with number 1200P60 CPDN near the varistor which I dont know it was also affected. I can't find that part. But does anybody know if once I put back the new capacitors, fuse and varistor what can happen if that chip is broken? I mean, could the thing explode again? I guess the C1 (47uF/450V) BIG capacitor is not going to explode if there is no way it is going to get more than 450v from anywhere.

Finally. vasilis mentioned a zener and a fuse at the output. Maybe that was his particular problem or for theolder units. I can see a zener in my power supply near the output. Anyway do anybody knows which type of zener and fuse to use. And more or less where to connect them?
I wish we had pictures from vasilis mod.

I know i am asking too much.
Thanks.
Henk Poley
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Post by Henk Poley »

Seems like the transistor-on-the-heatsink burned out in my adapter. I think I will plunge the money (39 euros..) for a European adapter.

Any advice to protect this new adapter from burning out?
juanpa74
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Post by juanpa74 »

I am about to sell on eBay an original Roomba charger modified for 220V input.
It will be cheaper. You might be interested.
I live in UK.
Henk Poley wrote:Seems like the transistor-on-the-heatsink burned out in my adapter. I think I will plunge the money (39 euros..) for a European adapter.

Any advice to protect this new adapter from burning out?
Henk Poley
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Post by Henk Poley »

Thanks but I think I'll hava "locally" bought ones, which means I will have some warranty, and not iRobot's odd "US product out of the US means we don't do anything about it" policy.
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